We set off for Paris on the Eurostar last Tuesday evening. Because of the heavy snow in Kent and northern France it started a little late and had to travel more slowly than usual. This meant that we arrived in Paris ninety minutes late and it was nearly 1am before we got to our hotel near the Montparnasse-Bienvenue Metro station. The Montparnasse Novotel was very comfortable (apart from there being no hot water one day), and quite convenient, the Metro station being a crossing point for several lines.
Wednesday morning our first task was to get to Boulevard Montmartre to pick up the four day Paris Passes we had paid for in advance from the
Hard Rock Cafe. We walked the last couple of Metro stops along the boulevards and got the feel of them. Cold but bright.
I am not sure I would bother about the Paris Pass again. It cost us €139 each. For that you get entry into around 60 sights and free public transport. But how much can you do in four days? I reckon we used it in nine paying attractions, which would be around €90 in entry fees, and we did use the metro a lot, but not to the full value. We were never going to get as far as Versailles or any other of the far out places, especially in the winter. The only advantage was that we did not have to queue for tickets at any of the museums. Next time I would just go for any deal going on transport and leave it at that.
Anyway, having got the pass we wandered south to the Louvre, had a snack (expensive), and spent most of the afternoon there. Previously I had only spent about an hour there. This visit was much longer and we did justice to the wonderful collections, though we didn't see everything.
Next time I reckon we need to spend another day to see the bits we didn't see at all - the Egyptian galleries, Etruscan, French painting, the oriental and the Islamic.
We ate our main meal that evening just down the road from our hotel. I gave up on my squid, cooked so badly that a bicycle inner tube would have been easier to chew. Our debit and credit cards then failed to be accepted. I don't know what one is supposed to do about using them abroad. If you try and tell the banks before you go they are not interested, but the minute you try to use the cards they block the transactions. No marks to the Royal Bank of Scotland or the Co-op Bank.

On Thursday morning we were able to get on line 13 of the Metro at Montparnasse and go directly without change all the way north to
Basilique St Denis without changing. Train and St Denis swarming with students. The tombs of the royal families are well worth seeing. During the Revolution an attempt was made to destroy them, and lots were, but someone was foresighted enough to save what he could.

The French were burying their kings there in the 600s, long before our Westminster Abbey was even built. When we came out the weather was freezing, so after a quick walk up the main street of the town we found a brasserie overlooking the cathedral square and had a good (and cheap) lunch.
The afternoon was a bit of a disaster. Rosalind wanted to go Christmas shopping in the
Galleries Lafayette. We did go in, and enjoyed the architecture, but the place was too heaving with people to be pleasant. And the clothes prices were high compared with England. So we left and went to have a drink nearby opposite the
Opera Garnier. Our own fault for choosing such a place - €16 for a beer and a hot chocolate. Then we discovered that the Opera museum which our Paris Pass should have got us into was closed for renovations, and that the Pass does not give entry into the Opera visit itself.

Late in the afternoon we wandered into the Tuileries Gardens to discover that the
Orangerie was open, so we went in there and saw the Monet waterlily paintings. We saw his gardens at Giverny in the summer, so this was good. The rest of the paintings in the Orangerie are part of what was a private collection. Whoever made it had good taste in some artists, but other parts of the collection have not worn well.
After a snack supper we set off at 7 to reach the Opera Comique for an 8pm performance of Lully's
Cadmus et Hermione, all booked in advance over the internet. An hour should have been plenty of time. Next door to our hotel was the mainline railway station Montparnasse Vaugiraud. You could go down into this station, along a series of tunnels, under another station, Gare Montparnasse, and twenty minutes later find yourself at the Metro station. We did this, but the train we caught began stopping longer and longer at the various stations and then an announcement was made that there was a problem with the line ahead. So we got out and eventually found a taxi, the driver of which turned out never to have heard of the Opera Comique. However, he did know the whereabouts of the street it is in, so he got us to the Boulevard des Italiens with five minutes to spare. Our seats were in the gods right at the top of the theatre (the French call this level Paradis). The view was terrific, perched so high above the action. Lovely music, lots of dancing, and splendid costumes, especially feather headdresses which gave an Inca look to the protagonists. Usual preposterous plot, involving gods and monsters who appeared out of the ground, but they were all appeased or fought off and there was a happy ending.
We were interested in the language. My grasp of French is such that though I can read it a bit I can never understand more than the odd spoken word. As expected the sung words had all their end syllables enunciated. What we did not expect was the difference in the actual pronunciation of many words. Infinitives for example, had their last syllables pronouced like an English
ur rather than as
ay in modern French. We wished we knew more about the rules. Was this change because the words were sung, or was it that they were using 18th century pronunciation?
It was a lovely evening. The only caveat to that was the lighting which appeared to be designed to give the full 18th century experience. There was a row of candles at the front of the stage, but not much else. Certainly no spotlights. That would be all very well if the production were taking place in the court of Louis XIV, where the main part of the audience would be quite close to the singers. For us, forty or fifty feet high in a modern theatre the effect was akin to our sitting on the roof of our house trying to see a troup of mice in the garden acting by the light of one candle. It meant that we couldn't really appreciate the lovely costumes properly.
On Friday our first stop was the Tour Montparnasse above the local railway station and once the tallest office building in Europe. The views from the top were good. (Opposite is the National Postal Museum, which we kept passing, but we didn't ever find time to go in.) Then we took the Metro to the Ile de la Cite.

Under the square in front of
Notre Dame is a little museum where are displayed in situ the remains of various buildings going right back to Roman times. That was interesting. Then to Notre Dame itself. They must have cleaned the windows as the whole place was so much lighter than the last time I visited.

Crowded with tourists like ourselves but still a moving place.
It being bright and sunny we then walked all the way round the next island, the
Isle de St Louis and had lunch in a nice little restaurant.
Back on the Isle de la Cite we visited the
Conciergerie, the prison where victims of the Revolution were kept while on trial and from whence they were taken on tumbrils to the guillotine. Worth seeing for the great hall which acted as a guardroom in the middle ages.

Then south off the island to the Left Bank so see again the
Musee du Cluny (Musee du Moyen Age) where the famous unicorn tapestries are. We couldn't go to Paris without seeing them again. Also there at the moment an exhibition of Czech religious sculpture well worth seeing.
At the end of the afternoon we wandered through the shopping streets and I spent some time in a huge bookshop, Gibert Joseph, near St Michel. I love French books. They are so attractively designed. Wish I could read them.
Saturday first thing we went to the
Musee d'Orsay. At present they have on an exhibition of the works of Gerome, a rather fun nineteenth century French artist. I came across his work a couple of years ago when I acquired a book about him, so an exhibition of the actual work was great. Gerome did a lot to propagate a certain sort of Orientalism in western art. He also painted classical scenes, some in gory detail. In the exhibition there is a typical pair of his. The first shows in the arena of the Colosseum a group of Christians praying, with a lion and several other big cats emerging from a tunnel, about to see them. The second picture shows the beasts being driven back into the tunnels after the spectacle is over. The sand is strewn with the blood and body parts of the Christians. Quite spectacular.
While we were in the upper parts of the Musee we could see a blizzard outside. Across the river the Tuilleries Gardens rapidly became white. After lunch we walked through this whiteness to the Metro and set off for the
Pompidou Centre. The station we came out at debouched straight into the bricolage basement of a department store. It was one of the biggest hardware departments I have ever seen in any shop. Heaven. Having seen the Pompidou Centre I wished I had stayed in the shop.
Our final evening was spent looking at little shops off the Boulevard St-Germain, where we bought a little oil painting as a gift for a nephew's 21st birthday. We ate crepes at a Breton restaurant near our hotel.
The news of Eurostar was that some services had been cancelled on the Saturday and that passangers without tickets should not bother to turn up, but as we did have them we went to the Garde du Nord on Sunday morning to see what would happen. And the 8.07 did run. It wasn't even particularly full, and we got in to St Pancras only about a quarter of an hour late. There was a bit of snow in the fields near Paris, but not near the coast. Kent had most snow of the places we went through.
It was a good few days, but we are still exhausted from all the walking.